From The Cellar: Simcoe Day long weekend a chance to reflect on history and traditions

By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY

Each year, on the first Monday of August, Toronto celebrates Simcoe Day in honour of Lieutenant-Governor John Graves Simcoe, who established the Town of York, now Toronto, as the capital of Upper Canada in 1793.

Simcoe Day offers an opportunity not only to enjoy a long weekend, but also to consider the complicated history of the province we call home, who shaped it, who was already here, and how our understanding of that history continues to evolve.

Before Ontario was known for Riesling, Cabernet Franc, or Icewine, another beverage filled the glasses of settlers who helped shape the province. As Lieutenant-Governor John Graves Simcoe established the Town of York in 1793, daily life looked very different. While Simcoe never had the opportunity to taste an Ontario VQA wine, I suspect he would have appreciated how the province he helped establish has become one of North America’s most exciting cool-climate wine regions.

Redstone Cabernet Merlot VQA, Niagara, Ontario

13% Alc/Vol | $20.95| LCBO# 46025

A formal dinner in York in the late 1700s, there is a good chance that a bottle of claret would have found its way to the table. “Claret” was the name the British gave to the red wines of Bordeaux, a region whose wines were favoured by officers, politicians, merchants, and the upper classes throughout the British Empire.

Today, Ontario produces its own remarkable interpretations of this historic style. While they cannot legally be called claret, Bordeaux-style blends such as Redstone Cabernet Merlot VQA continue that centuries-old tradition using the very same family of grape varieties. Rich with black cherry, blackberry, herbs, cedar, and balanced tannins, the wine reflects Ontario’s cool-climate freshness while paying quiet homage to one of the world’s most enduring wine styles. Pair this with a grilled veggie or beef burger topped with caramelized onions.

Jackson-Triggs Sparkling Reserve VQA, Niagara, Ontario

13.3% Alc/Vol |  $18.95 |  LCBO# 21767

Years ago, I was invited to participate in a historical dinner reenactment at Fort York after archaeologists uncovered what they believed to be the neck of a sabered Champagne bottle during an excavation. Their discovery was later authenticated as being well over a century old, offering a fascinating glimpse into the traditions and celebrations of Toronto’s early history. It was a remarkable reminder that special occasions have long been marked by the ceremonial opening of sparkling wine.

As part of the evening, I had the privilege of performing a sabrage using my replica Katana sword, a memorable experience that has stayed with me ever since. While sabrage is most closely associated with Napoleon’s cavalry officers, the discovery of that historic bottle suggests that sparkling wine also held a place at significant celebrations in early Ontario.

I would suggest raising a glass of Jackson-Triggs Reserve Sparkling Brut VQA. Crafted in the traditional method, it offers lively bubbles with notes of crisp green apple, citrus, and freshly baked brioche, balanced by bright acidity and a refreshing finish.  

To accompany it, consider an Ontario cheese board featuring creamy mild goat cheese, aged Cheddar, fresh strawberries, Niagara peaches, and warm artisan bread. The wine’s vibrant acidity complements the richness of the cheeses while enhancing the sweetness of the seasonal fruit, creating a pairing that feels both celebratory and unmistakably Ontario.

Casa Dos Vinhos 5 Years Old Madeira, Madeira, Portugal

19% Alc/Vol |  $22.45 |  LCBO# 27375

Madeira may have fallen out of fashion since its historic heyday, but every time I introduce it in one of my wine classes, it gains a few new admirers. Produced on the Portuguese island of Madeira, this remarkable fortified wine became one of the great wines of the 18th century because it was virtually indestructible during long sea voyages. It was a favourite throughout the British Empire and would almost certainly have appeared at the tables of governors, military officers, and prosperous merchants during John Graves Simcoe’s era.

For those who have never experienced Madeira, remember that it is a sweet, richly flavoured wine. Depending on the style, you can expect notes of caramel, roasted nuts, dried figs, orange peel, toffee, and warm baking spices, all balanced by a surprising freshness that keeps it from becoming cloying.

One of my favourite ways to enjoy Madeira is simply served over ice on a warm summer evening. It also pairs beautifully with a fresh fruit flan, where its caramel and dried fruit notes echo the pastry and ripe seasonal fruit, or with mocha and chocolate ice cream, allowing the wine’s toasted, nutty character to complement both the coffee and cocoa flavours.

Long before Ontario became known for its vineyards, tea was one of the defining beverages of British life. During John Graves Simcoe’s time, tea was far more than a simple refreshment. It was a symbol of hospitality, civility, and community. Today, tea continues to bring people together, although perhaps in a slightly different way.

Instead of reaching for a commercially sweetened iced tea. Discover loose-leaf teas from Sloane Fine Tea Merchants in Toronto in Leslieville. Founded by Canadian Tea Sommelier® Hoda Paripoush, Sloane has earned an international reputation for sourcing exceptional teas from around the world while blending them with remarkable care and craftsmanship. Simply brew your favourite tea a little stronger than usual, allow it to cool, pour it over ice, and garnish with fresh lemon, peaches, mint, or seasonal berries from your local market.

If you’re spending the long weekend by the lake, pack a picnic of cucumber and cream cheese tea sandwiches, fresh Ontario berries, and homemade iced tea.

Whatever you’re enjoying this long weekend, I hope it reminds you that Ontario’s greatest traditions are not found only in our history, but in the people around our table and while history may fill our glasses with stories, it is those we share them with who give every sip its meaning.

— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.