From The Cellar: Pizza, patios, and wine in the Beach make for wonderful moments

By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY

Pizza has always belonged to neighbourhoods. It is food meant to be shared,  passed across tables, eaten with your hands, and enjoyed without ceremony.

In The Beach, where patios fill quickly and the lake breeze seems to make everything taste a little fresher, pizza and wine feel like a natural pairing. The beauty of the combination is not in complexity, but in balance: acidity meeting tomato sauce, crisp wine cutting through melted cheese, and simple ingredients elevated by thoughtful pairing.

Fantini Negroamaro, IGP, Puglia, Italy

14 % Alc/Vol | $11.80 | LCBO# 143735

There is something wonderfully honest about Neapolitan pizza. The blistered crust, restrained toppings, and simple ingredients remind us that great food often relies more on balance than excess. At Pizzeria NO.900 Beaches, the roasted eggplant and tomato pizza captures this philosophy beautifully. The eggplant brings a silky, almost smoky richness, while the bright tomato sauce and fresh herbs keep the pizza lively and grounded in classic Italian flavour. The soft chew of the wood-fired crust ties everything together with warmth and texture.

Paired alongside Fantini Negroamaro IGP from Puglia, the combination feels effortless. Negroamaro’s ripe dark fruit, gentle spice, and earthy undertones echo the roasted depth of the eggplant, while its fresh acidity cuts through the tomato and cheese with ease. There is enough structure in the wine to stand up to the charred crust, yet it remains smooth and approachable — never overpowering the delicacy of the pizza itself.

Mionetto Prestige De-Alcoholized Sparkling Wine, Italy

0.01% Alc/Vol |  $18.95 |  LCBO# 42139

One of the beautiful things about pizza is its ability to bring people together, and at 6ix Pizzas, that sense of inclusion feels intentional. Their combination of beef pepperoni, ground beef, tandoori chicken, and extra cheese reflects not only bold flavour, but the multicultural spirit of Toronto itself, where traditions, spices, and comfort foods comfortably meet on the same table.

What truly anchors the pizza, however, is the sauce. Made from vine-ripened tomatoes, it delivers a brightness and natural sweetness that lifts the richness of the toppings rather than burying them. Vine-ripened tomatoes matter because they are allowed to mature naturally before harvest, developing deeper flavour, balanced acidity, and a more expressive tomato character. The result is a sauce that tastes vibrant and alive, supporting the restaurant’s tagline not through marketing, but through flavour itself.

Continuing the theme of inclusivity naturally led me toward Mionetto Prestige Alcohol-Removed Sparkling Wine. Crisp, lively, and approachable, the sparkling wine brings freshness to the richness of the cheese and meats, while its gentle fruit notes soften the spice of the tandoori chicken. More importantly, it allows everyone at the table to participate in the pairing experience, regardless of whether they choose to consume alcohol. There is something thoughtful about that. A reminder that wine culture, much like pizza, is at its best when it invites people in rather than keeping them out.

Mylona Assyrtiko Attica, Attiki, Greece

12.5% Alc/Vol | $18.25| LCBO# 35712

Not all pizzas rely on tomato sauce to make an impression. At Casa Di Giorgio, the Pizza in Bianco proves that restraint can sometimes be the most compelling ingredient of all. Built on a base of flor di latte mozzarella, peppery arugula, delicate prosciutto, and shaved Parmesan, this style of pizza allows each ingredient to speak clearly.

“Bianco,” meaning “white,” refers to the absence of tomato sauce, creating a pizza that is lighter in appearance but wonderfully layered in texture and flavour. The creamy mozzarella melts gently into the crust, while the salty prosciutto and nutty Parmesan add depth and savoury complexity. Fresh arugula brings brightness and a slight bitterness that keeps every bite feeling fresh and balanced.

I had the opportunity to taste Mylona Assyrtiko Attica from Attiki, Greece, and was immediately struck by its ability to stand confidently beside creamy Brie cheese without losing its freshness or precision. That experience stayed with me. Assyrtiko is one of Greece’s most historic and respected grape varieties, originating on the volcanic island of Santorini, where harsh winds, heat, and mineral-rich soils shaped a grape known for retaining remarkable acidity even in warm climates. Traditionally trained low to the ground in woven basket-like vines to protect the fruit from strong Aegean winds, Assyrtiko has become celebrated for its citrus character, saline minerality, and crisp structure.

The wine’s vibrant acidity cuts through the creamy cheese and delicate fat of the prosciutto, while its mineral backbone complements the savoury notes of Parmesan and the freshness of the arugula. Together, the pairing feels elegant yet effortless and  proof that some of the most memorable combinations are built not on heaviness, but on balance.

Agua Do Sol Vinho Regional Lisboa Red, Portugal

13% Alc/Vol |$9.85| LCBO# 43981

Some pizzas remind us that simplicity, when done well, never goes out of style. At Pizzaiolo, The Rita, layered with fresh basil, mozzarella cheese, and Pizzaiolo’s signature tomato sauce is a beautiful example of that philosophy. The sauce brings brightness and gentle sweetness, the mozzarella adds creamy comfort, and the basil lifts the entire pizza with freshness and aroma. Pizzaiolo has become part of the rhythm of The Beach, contributing to the neighbourhood’s casual and welcoming food culture for years, where friends gather on patios in summer, and where uncomplicated food quietly becomes part of our memories.

My dear friend Lady Helen of Bingham recently introduced me to Água do Sol Vinho Regional Lisboa Red, a Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, and Alicante Bouschet, initially through the label alone. And what a label it is; vibrant, inviting, and perfectly suited to the spirit of patio season. Fortunately, the wine inside lives up to the first impression. Juicy and generous, it offers ripe dark berries, soft spice, and enough freshness to complement the bright tomato sauce and creamy cheese without overwhelming the pizza.

Pizza, the Beach and beverages capture something wonderfully Beach-like: relaxed afternoons, easy conversation, and the simple pleasure of sharing good food and wine with people who matter.

That is the true beauty of pizza culture along Queen Street East. It reminds us that some of life’s best moments are not elaborate at all, but wonderfully uncomplicated.

— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.