Danforth Avenue restaurants celebrate Ethiopian heritage and food

By NAYONIKA MANNA

It’s a bright, sunny day in Toronto. The sunlight streams through the windows, filling the space with warmth. Splashes of blue, green and red decorate the walls, where traditional Gurage grass-woven basket ornaments hang. The air is filled with the rich, bitter-sweet aroma of freshly roasted coffee and mouth-watering Ethiopian food. Soft jazz plays in the background, adding to the relaxed vibe.

What’s unexpected is that you are on the Danforth, a place known for its Greek heritage, yet here you are, experiencing the heart of Ethiopian culture.

Danforth Avenue is known for its vibrant diversity, where different cultures come together, creating a lively community. Once primarily home to Greek immigrants, today it is a melting pot of cultures, including a strong presence of Ethiopian, Eritrean and Caribbean communities.

As of 2021, Toronto-Danforth’s population of more than 104,000 included 5.3 per cent identifying as Black, many from these East African communities, enriching the area’s cultural landscape. This diversity is reflected in the local businesses, especially the stretch between Greenwood and Coxwell Avenues. One standout is Rendez-Vous, a restaurant offering authentic Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine.

Founded by Banchi Kinde in 2001, Rendez-Vous is the first Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant in Toronto. It introduced the rich and vibrant flavors of her homeland to the Danforth community.

Kinde’s journey into the culinary world began in her childhood, where cooking wasn’t just a necessity, but a way of life. Growing up in a large family in Ethiopia, she was surrounded by the constant activity of meal preparation.

“I didn’t just grow up with my brothers and sisters, but also my cousins,” recalled Kinde. “We had a big family, so there was always a lot of cooking going on. For breakfast, we’d make a big meal, but it would be finished quickly because there were so many people. Right after that, we’d start preparing lunch, and then dinner.”

This busy kitchen environment sparked Kinde’s love for cooking. She spent countless hours helping her mother, who, despite not having formal schooling, managed the household and became an exceptional cook.

“My mom and the other chefs in the house would always say, ‘when Banchi cooks, the food tastes really good,’ and that really encouraged me. Even my dad would ask me to make him something special,” she said.

After completing her college education in Ethiopia, Kinde moved to Washington, D.C., to pursue further studies. However, the political situation back home worsened because of the deterioration of civil liberties in Ethiopia due to the war with Eritrea, forcing her to juggle part-time jobs.

“My first job was as a waitress, and I was very good at it,” said Kinde. “Everyone’s compliments made me believe that someday I would start my own business.”

As her study permit was about to expire, she set her sights on Toronto, a city known for its multiculturalism and opportunities.

“There were Ethiopian restaurants on the west side of Canada, but none on the east side,” she explained. “That’s when I decided to open my business here.”

When she arrived in Toronto, she started by working in small restaurants, gaining insight into the local scene. With a desire to create something special, she launched Rendez-Vous, handling the kitchen herself, which allowed her to cut costs while saving money to expand.

But Kinde said she faced skepticism. “When I opened Rendez-Vous, many people didn’t believe that I was the owner. This is because, in my community, young women like me were often not seen as capable,” she said.

“But when people visited my restaurant and tried the food, they kept coming back and bringing their friends. Word of mouth made my place busy, and I never lacked customers from day one.”

Rendez-Vous quickly became a beloved landmark in the Danforth community, attracting patrons from diverse backgrounds.

Locals were drawn to the restaurant’s unique flavors and vibrant atmosphere. The Meat & Veggie Combo Platter, Doro Wat, Shiro Wat, Chacha and Spicy Chicken stew were among the most popular dishes served.

The COVID-19 pandemic presented Kinde with one of her toughest challenges yet.

“We were obligated to shut down temporarily and forced to do take-outs only,” she said. “I paused my mortgage to support my employees, who are like family to me.”

Despite the challenges of running a small business, Kinde remains passionate about her work.

“When you have a small business, you must love what you do,” she emphasized. “I’ve been in this restaurant business for 24 years, and I still feel like I just started yesterday.”

Today, Kinde not only runs Rendez-Vous but has also opened La Vegan, a restaurant dedicated to Ethiopian vegan cuisine.

“With more people interested in healthy eating, I saw an opportunity to create a place that offers only Ethiopian vegan food,” she explained. “Ethiopian food is healthy and flavourful, with less oil, more vegetables, grains and lentils.”

The new restaurant further enhances the culinary diversity in the area and attracts even more patrons from various cultural backgrounds.

Nahomi Lemma, a new waitress at La Vegan, shared her experience working under Kinde.

“Banchi has been like a mother to me. She taught me everything herself,” she said. “I feel so safe and secure when I am here, and it feels great to have someone to guide you, especially as a newcomer in the city.”

Kinde’s vision extends beyond her restaurants. “We give some of our profits to charities, support mental health initiatives, and provide cooking classes in the summer.”

She is currently working on a book that emphasizes healthy eating through Ethiopian cuisine, with hopes of inspiring others to embrace her culture.

Kinde continues to inspire those around her. Through her dedication to her culture and her people, she proves that food can indeed connect us all.

For more information on Rendez-Vous, please go to the Instagram page at https://www.instagram.com/rendezvous.to/?hl=en

For more information on La Vegan, please go to the Instagram page at https://www.instagram.com/la.vegan1/?hl=en