From The Cellar: The sweater weather wine list
By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY
There comes a September evening in the Beach when you leave home without a sweater and wish you hadn’t. The afternoon may still be warm, but by dinner there is a chill coming off the lake. Wine has its own version of that moment.
As temperatures cool, our tastes begin to shift. Crisp Sauvignon Blanc and chilled rosé still have a place at the table, but lighter reds, savoury flavours and wines with a little more texture begin to appeal. We are cooking differently, eating differently and spending more time indoors.
Welcome to sweater weather. It’s time for the wine list to add another layer.
Sauvignon Blanc: Summer Isn’t Over Yet
Rapaura Springs Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2025Marlborough, New Zealand | $23.95 | VINTAGES #388421
There is no reason to put Sauvignon Blanc away in October. Rapaura Springs Reserve offers the lively freshness Marlborough is known for, with citrus and tropical fruit complemented by vibrant acidity. Try serving it slightly less chilled than you might on a hot July afternoon; a few minutes out of the refrigerator allows more aroma and flavour to emerge.
This wine works beautifully with a creamy goat cheese, roasted vegetables, leek tart or herb-roasted chicken. The season has changed, not the grape.
Rosé: Don’t Pack It Away with the Patio Furniture
Gérard Bertrand Gris Blanc Rosé Organic |France | $14.95 sale | VINTAGES #14673
Who decided rosé was only for summer? Gérard Bertrand’s organic Gris Blanc is a dry, delicate rosé with bright red berry, citrus and mineral characteristics. Its freshness makes it just as comfortable at an October table as it is on a July patio.
This wine sits comfortably alongside Atlantic salmon en papillote with lemon and fresh herbs, charcuterie, chicken wings or an autumn salad with apples, walnuts and cheese.
And remember, the colour of rosé is not an indication of its sweetness. Rosé doesn’t know that Labour Day has passed.
Cabernet Franc : Put on the Sweater
Fielding Cabernet Franc 2024 | Niagara Peninsula, Ontario | $26.15 | VINTAGES #36194
Now we are into October. Cabernet Franc is particularly well suited to Ontario’s cool-climate conditions, and Fielding’s 2024 gives us an opportunity to keep the autumn table close to home. Look for the red fruit, herbal and peppery characteristics that make Cabernet Franc so distinctive, with enough structure for cooler evenings without becoming overwhelmingly heavy.
Pair it with mushroom risotto, roast pork sausages with Yukon Gold potatoes, stewed lentils or aged Ontario Cheddar. This is sweater weather in a glass.
Pinot Noir: Stay for Dinner
Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Pinot Noir VQA | Niagara Peninsula, Ontario | $29.95 | VINTAGES #33894
Pinot Noir seems made for this time of year. Domaine Le Clos Jordanne brings Ontario’s cool climate into the glass through red cherry and berry fruit, gentle spice and earthy, savoury notes. Pinot Noir’s bright acidity and lighter structure also make it wonderfully versatile at the table.
Try it with porcini pasta, maple-glazed tilapia with roasted beets, pork tenderloin with an apple and thyme reduction, or a simple board of bread and cheese. Serve it slightly cool rather than at a warm room temperature to preserve its freshness and delicate aromas.
One Last Thought
Sweater weather doesn’t necessarily mean heavier wine. It simply gives us an opportunity to change the textures, flavours and temperatures in our glass.
As Thanksgiving approaches, whatever you choose to pour, raise your glass not simply to what is in it, but in gratitude for what we have, and especially for the family, friends and neighbours who gather around our tables.
— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.
