From The Cellar: Mindful drinking is about choice, inclusion and a broader table

By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY

January invites a different kind of hospitality. After the noise of December, this is the month that asks us to slow down and make space for intention.

Mindful drinking isn’t about abstaining or denying pleasure, it’s about choice. It’s about recognizing that the modern table is beautifully diverse and that what’s in our glass should reflect that same spirit of inclusion.

This is where alcohol-free wines and low-ABV (Alcohol by Volume) styles come into their own. These are beverages that honour craftsmanship without excess and pleasure without pressure. They allow everyone including designated drivers, sober-curious friends, expectant parents, early risers, and lifelong wine lovers alike to participate fully in the ritual of gathering.

Mindful drinking reminds us that hospitality is less about what we consume and more about how we welcome one another.

Let me begin by saying that non-alcoholic, de-alcoholized, and low-alcohol wines are often misunderstood. There is no single universal law that states wine must contain alcohol. Rather, alcohol levels are governed by appellation and regulatory frameworks. In many traditional wine regions, appellation laws set minimum and sometimes maximum alcohol thresholds that wines must meet to carry a protected designation of origin.

When alcohol is reduced or removed, the wine may no longer qualify for that appellation status, but that does not diminish the quality or intent behind the bottle. Instead, these wines invite us to reconsider how we define wine, value inclusion, and welcome choice at the table.

The producer, Bodegas Murviedro is one of the most historic and significant wineries in Spain’s Utiel-Requena. The winery is rooted in a legacy that stretches back to the early 20th century. Founded in 1927 as part of the Swiss Schenk family’s wine enterprise, the winery’s name, Murviedro derives from Muri Veteres (Old Walls). The old walls once encircled the ancient town of Requena.

What fascinates me about the wine producing region, Utiel-Requena,  is how history and altitude work together to shape wines of distinction. This is a region where old vines and thoughtful farming turn a once-overlooked grape into something quietly compelling. The wine is listed as being produced from a non-descript local grape. I know that 80 per cent of grapes grown in this region is Bobal but it may be possible for Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Tardana to be in the blend.

With 55 wines in Bodegas Murviedro’s portfolio, the producer reflects a growing commitment to vegan practices, organic viticulture, and dealcoholized options. The wine is refreshing with a delicate  mousse and notes of juicy berries.  Pair it with a classic grilled cheese and crunchy coleslaw or take a sweeter turn with strawberries finished with a gentle sprinkle of cinnamon.

Years ago, while judging a wine competition in the Rhine, I was immersed in Riesling from dry to sweet, young to mature, restrained to expressive. It was there, finally, that I understood the grape’s remarkable range and discovered a newfound appreciation for it.

The White Rabbit is no exception. Fresh apricot, peach, and gooseberry leap from the glass, with a cheeky hint of vanilla tagging along. The palate keeps the party going with bright citrus, a flicker of clove, and just enough zingy acidity to make this Riesling glide effortlessly from sip to sip. It’s vibrant, animated, and unapologetically fun to drink.

Try it with salt-and-vinegar chips. It sounds mischievous (and it is), but the wine’s acidity and fruit tame the tang and make the whole experience irresistibly snackable. Serve it alongside Thai peanut noodles or satay skewers. Riesling loves a little spice and sweetness. It smooths out the heat and lifts the aromatics.

Vermouth is an aromatized, fortified wine traditionally flavoured with a blend of herbs, spices, roots, and botanicals. At its core, vermouth begins as wine, which is then infused with botanicals such as wormwood (the defining ingredient that gives vermouth its name), citrus peel, herbs, flowers, and spices. In classic styles, a small amount of neutral spirit is added to fortify the wine, along with a touch of sweetness or bitterness depending on the style. The result is a balanced, aromatic beverage that sits comfortably between wine and spirits.

With more than 150 years of experience working with herbs and grapes, Martini & Rossi brings its aperitivo heritage into a new, ultra-low-ABV expression. This Italian-style non-alcoholic vermouth is infused with fragrant bergamot and  oranges, resulting in a vibrant, floral, and quietly complex drink with a refined bittersweet edge. It delivers all the pleasure and ritual of a classic vermouth moment without the alcohol. For my Breakfree friends, this wine makes for a good Phony Negroni. It’s proof that flavour, does not depend on strength, only on intention.

The story of Natureo 0.5 Red begins in the Torres vineyards, where grapes are carefully cultivated to capture character before the alcohol is gently removed. The result is a balanced, approachable wine that invites mindful sipping.

I first met owner and president Miguel Torres in the late 1980s, at a trade tasting, and I was immediately captivated by his passion for the earth, grape growing, and family tradition. At a later event, he noticed my keen curiosity and genuine enthusiasm for wine. Without ceremony, he handed me his personal gold-coloured corkscrew and encouraged me to keep nurturing my curiosity to learning about the industry. It was a moment I’ve carried with me ever since.

That spirit of curiosity and innovation lives on in Bodega Torres Natureo 0.0 Red and offers a thoughtful alternative for those who wish to enjoy the essence of wine without alcohol. The marriage of Garnacha and Syrah grapes gives the wine its easy warmth and quiet complexity. Garnacha contributing fruit and aroma, Syrah adding backbone and savoury nuance. The result is a balanced, approachable wine.

It drinks beautifully on its own and pairs effortlessly with pasta in a classic marinara sauce.

The glass may be empty for now, but the journey isn’t over. There are more discoveries ahead, and I look forward to sharing them with you.

— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.