The Main Menu: The magic of the ‘egg’cellent egg and its role in seasonal baking

By JAN MAIN

Eggs create magic! They work this magic a number of ways:

• As a binder, they hold ingredients together in a recipe!
• Eggs are magically a rising agent reknown in souffles and essential in baking.
• They are edible glue; for instance, when you want to stick nuts, seeds or sprinkles to cookies or any baked product, brush the surface first with egg white to “glue” on the added sprinkles or nut to the product.
• Eggs also act as edible paint. You often brush a baked product such as bread or cookies with beaten egg or yolk to add a golden sheen to the product while baking.

Yes, eggs are essential in cooking! Delicious in appetizers, main courses and desserts, they come self-contained with their own shell which keeps their contents safe from bacteria. When buying eggs, check the shell to make sure there are no cracks which could allow bacteria to enter.

From now into December, eggs will play all these roles in seasonal baking.

Appetizer Crepes

Of course, crepes can be served as a main course (larger size) with a savoury filling and/or a dessert with a sweet filling but this smaller version lends itself to be picked up with the fingers and eaten as a starter.

Basic Crepe Recipe
1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt
3 eggs, beaten
1 1/4 cups (300 mL) milk
3 tbsp (45 mL) melted butter
Filling:
8 oz (250 g) softened cream cheese
8 oz (250 g) thinly sliced smoked salmon
1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice
1-2 tsp (5–10 mL) grated lemon rind
1/4 cup (50 mL) chopped dill

In a mixing bowl using a whisk, whisk together flour, salt, beaten eggs and 2 tbsp (25mL) melted butter until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. Brush an – inch or smaller Teflon pan with oil; heat over medium-high heat; when hot pour in 2 tbsp of batter and tilt pan to cover pan bottom with batter. Return to burner and cook until the top is no longer shiny and bottom starts to brown.

Loosen edges with spatula and using fingers, flip crepe over to brown on other side; cook briefly until lightly browned and turn out onto a plate. Place a piece of waxed paper on top to separate each crepe and repeat with remaining batter to use up batter separating each crepe with waxed paper or parchment paper.

Crepes may be made and served the same day or covered and refrigerated or frozen and wrapped and for future use.

Filling: In a mixing bowl, beat together cream, lemon juice, rind and dill. If using salmon pieces add to creamed cheese with the fresh dill and combine well.

Divide mixture evenly among crepes. Roll up and cut in half for appetizer crepes. Leave whole for main course crepes. Makes 24 appetizer and 12 main course crepes.

Baked Croque Monsieur

Traditionally, Croque Monsieur is a sandwich made of ham and cheese but this version is made into a make-ahead casserole called a strata, baked in the oven and served hot with a salad.

It’s ideal for brunch or a simple supper. It is easy to assemble and quick to make with tasty results. Serve with homemade cranberry sauce, chutney or pickles.

12 slices of quality bread, crusts removed if you wish
24 slices ham, smoked turkey or chicken
12 slices Swiss cheese
soft butter
Dijon mustard
6 eggs
2 tsp (10 mL) tarragon
1 1/2cups (375 mL) milk

Spread 6 slices of bread with softened butter and 6 slices with Dijon mustard. Assemble bread into ham or smoked meat sandwiches with a slice of cheese and cut sandwiches in half. Crusts may be removed. Arrange in 13 x9 inch (3 L) casserole. Beat eggs, tarragon and milk together and pour evenly over sandwiches. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 375 F (190 C) and bake casserole 40-45 minutes or until piping hot and golden brown. Serves 6.

Meringues with Lemon Curd

This magical recipe can be transformed into a number of classics simply by making it bigger or smaller. It truly shows the versatility of the simple egg!

The hardest part is separating eggs. Once you can do that – the rest is easy!

4 eggs, separated
1 cup (250 mL) sugar
1 tsp (5 mL) cream of tartar or 1/2 tsp (salt)
Lemon Curd
4 egg yolks (leftover from the meringue) or 2 whole eggs
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) grated lemon rind

To separate eggs, use 3 small bowls: 1 to break the egg over, 1 for the yolk and 1 for the white. You cannot get any yolk in the white or it will not whip up – make sure to use 3 bowls!

Using an electric mixer beat whites until soft peaks form, gradually beat in sugar and cream of tartar. Continue beating until stiff peaks are formed and meringue stays in bowl when turned upside down. Beat in vanilla.

You can now pipe individual small, medium or make one large meringue shaped like a bowl to hold lemon curd mixed with whipped cream and topped with a garnish of fresh fruit (raspberries, strawberries, whatever looks good or pipe small meringues to sandwich together with a spread of lemon curd. Yum!

If you don’t feel like piping, use a teaspoon to drop meringue onto parchment paper lined baking sheet. Bake in pre-heated 300 (200 C) oven for 25-30 minutes for large 15-20 minutes for small, (they should be a pale brown colour) turn off oven and let them stay in there overnight.

Lemon Curd

In a stainless saucepan over medium high heat, whisk eggs, sugar, lemon juice and rind together whisking continually until it thickens. This will happen within minutes and requires constant whisking to prevent burning.

Once thickened remove from heat and cool, then turn into jar and refrigerate.

Lemon curd may have 1 cup of whipping cream, whipped and folded into the lemon curd to be served as a lemon mousse or frozen and used as lemon ice cream. It is an ideal filling for the meringue.

If you wish, a garnish of strawberries or raspberries may be added. Serves 6 to 8.