From The Cellar: Pouring wines of thanks and togetherness this Thanksgiving holiday
By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY
Thanksgiving is a holiday that never fits neatly into a single definition.
For some, it’s the smell of turkey roasting in the oven and the sound of children running through the house. For others, it’s a quieter moment, a table set for two, a call with family across the miles, or simply the pause to be grateful for the season’s harvest.
Being thankful shows up in different ways, just as wine shows up differently in every glass.
Each bottle carries its own narrative of weather, soil, and patient winemaking, echoing the stories we carry to the table. When we pour a wine on Thanksgiving, we’re not just filling a glass, we’re adding to the conversation, weaving together the memory of being present.
And so, just as every gathering looks a little different, the wines we choose can shape the mood of the day.
A bright, crisp white wine might mirror the freshness of a new beginning, while a silky Pinot Noir might echo the comfort of old traditions. Sparkling wines remind us to celebrate the simple act of gathering, and richer reds invite us to linger just a little longer after the last bite of pie.
Choosing the right bottle is less about perfection and more about creating harmony between food, between people, and between the gratitude that grounds us all.
Terres De Saint Louis Rosé Varois En Provence AOC
13% Alc/Vol | $16.60| | LCBO# 234575
There is so much to love about Provence, from its timeless beauty to the wines that embody its spirit. This wine is created under the oversight of the Cercle des Vignerons de Provence. This is a community of growers who pool resources, vineyard sites, and expertise to make wines that carry the character of their shared terroir in Provence, France.
The vineyards for this rosé are farmed at altitudes between 200 and 500 metres, where the daily swings between hot summer days and cooler nights allow grapes to ripen slowly and maintain aromatic lift and balance. To provide perspective, the average elevation of the Niagara Escarpment is 162 metres thus the grapes in Cercle des Vignerons is considered “mountain goat” territory. Because this rosé has both freshness and subtle depth, it can bridge from summer into autumn gracefully.
Here’s one pairing idea, roasted butternut squash, and sage risotto. In addition to a vegetable or chicken broth, use the wine in this recipe. The gentle creaminess of arborio rice and roasted squash will complement the wine’s soft fruit backbone, while the savory sage echoes the wine’s herbal nuances.
Athanasiou Assyrtiko 2023
12% Alc/Vol | $18.25 | LCBO#44519
This wine hails from Nemea, Greece. Nemea is often called the “Land of Zeus,” a name that resonates with me deeply. As a child with an inventive mind and a passion for ancient Greece, reading D’Aulaires’ Book of Greek Myths (1962), set in Nemea conjured images of lightning bolts, Hera, water beasts and epic landscapes. Sipping this wine always feels like a small pilgrimage to those stories I once treasured.
From the Athanasiou Winery comes this glorious expression of 100 per cent Assyrtiko (green grapes), beautifully crafted in the 2023 vintage. Because this Assyrtiko balances freshness with body and minerality, it works beautifully with autumnal seafood, poultry, and vegetable dishes.
For a Thanksgiving twist, this Assyrtiko would be beautiful with roast turkey and a citrus-herb stuffing. The zesty-dry finish refreshes the palate between bites of savoury turkey and buttery sides, giving the meal a lift without overshadowing it.
Leonardo Chianti Fiasco DOCG
13% Alc/Vol | $17.95| | LCBO# 372391
When I first heard the name Leonardo Chianti Fiasco, I couldn’t help but imagine Da Vinci himself raising a goblet in toast. It feels fitting, after all, this wine is as much homage to history as it is a bottle meant to be enjoyed.
Leonardo Chianti Fiasco is produced by Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a cooperative winery based in Tuscany. Founded in 1961 by a group of local growers who banded together to preserve and enhance their regional identity, the winery works in the spirit of tradition and collaboration. That bottle basket is not merely decoration. Originally, the 14th century woven straw basket served practical functions including keeping the bottle stable, protecting the wine from bumps in transit and ensuring the wine’s authenticity. Today, the 1965 Italian law protects the basket as a symbol of regional identity.
The Leonardo Chianti Fiasco is built on the Sangiovese grape, with a medium body, moderate tannins, and acidity that keeps it lively. This is the classic backbone of Chianti wines. I suggest to serve this wine beside a rustic lentil or bean stew with pancetta or sausage and San Marzano tomatoes. Let the warmth and depth of the dish echo the structure of the wine.
13th Street Burger Blend Gamay Noir Pinot Noir VQA
13.5% Alc/Vol | $15.95 | LCBO# 419945
Sometimes we overthink our wines. But some of the best ones remind you that joy can live in simplicity. 13th Street Winery is a Niagara favourite, and their Burger Blend Gamay / Pinot Noir VQA is proof that elegance doesn’t have to be complicated.
Growing up in Grimsby, I used to ride my bike through our neighbourhood until the land that would one day become this very winery became my playground, powered only by pedal and imagination. I am thankful my parents gave me that freedom.
Expect black cherry, tart cranberry, subtle licorice, hints of white mushroom, and soft spice, all held together by balanced acidity and gentle tannins when tasting this wine. It’s casual, comforting, and just the kind of pairing that lets the wine and the food “speak” to each other rather than compete.
Try with Margherita pizza. The wine’s bright acidity mirrors the tang of tomato sauce, while its red-berry fruit lifts the sweetness of roasted tomatoes.
San Alejandro Evodia Garnacha 2022
14% Alc/Vol | $16.95| | LCBO# 23914
I am thankful for the alignment I feel when sipping wine made from Garnacha (red grape). It’s the kind of wine that seems to echo the way my friendships play out in life: steadfast, warm, expressive, and exciting.
Evodia comes from Bodegas San Alejandro, in the Calatayud region of Aragón, Spain. The grapes come from vines that are mature, ranging from 40 to 100 years in age which can be a precursor for noteworthy wine. San Alejandro is widely recognized as a forward-thinking cooperative.
The first sip feels like a conversation between brightness and grace with raspberries and cherries flirting with the richer tones of cranberry compote, all grounded by a quiet thread of minerality. Its tannins whisper rather than insist. The wine leaves a lingering finish that feels both thoughtful and full of life.
This Garnacha sings with roasted vegetable paella. The wine’s juicy red-berry notes highlight the sweetness of roasted peppers and tomatoes, while its gentle tannins and minerality balance the earthiness of saffron-kissed rice and smoky paprika.
Life isn’t without its bumps, but Thanksgiving is our gentle nudge to pause, be thankful, and celebrate the people and comforts that make the journey worthwhile.
— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.
