From The Cellar: Uncorking the Beach and discovering local shops with global flavours

By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY

Recently, I had the pleasure of seeing Darrell Jaymes perform an acoustic set at 99 Bottles Bodega on Kingston Road. The performance was special because my guitarist-husband joined Darrell for a few songs.

Curious about the wine list, I wandered over to the bottle shop, and that discovery inspired this month’s column.

Ontario’s wine culture is changing. While the LCBO remains the province’s largest retailer, wine is now finding its way into multi-product convenience stores, licensed grocery aisles, and independent bottle shops. For consumers, this shift means more opportunities to explore wines in spaces that feel approachable and personal.

These local outlets often reflect the passion and taste of their owners. Instead of a standardized catalogue, the shelves tell a story of producers the shopkeepers admire, of styles they believe in, and of bottles that bring both value and craftsmanship to the table. The selections lean toward well-made, good-value wines with each shop adding character to the neighbourhood.

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery, Pinot Grigio, Lake Erie North Shore VQA, Ontario  

12.5% Alc/Vol | $14.95 | Discovered at Sandy’s Your Independent Grocer Toronto – 2266 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON 

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery, located in Lake Erie North Shore. They share common ground found in our community in that the property is Ontario’s only accessible beachfront winery. Their Pinot Grigio is light, fresh, and easy to enjoy. Packed with lively citrus flavours and a well-balanced finish, it’s a great pick for relaxed sipping or pairing with light meals.

One stop shopping will save time for the suggested food pairing. Enjoy this Pinot Grigio alongside an Ontario vegetable stir fry ( zucchini, wax beans, carrots, eggplant) with chow mein noodles and hoisin sauce and a dash of the wine. The wine lifts the natural sweetness of the vegetables, while its clean finish balances the savoury richness of the sauce. This is an easy, seasonal match made with ingredients found right in your local grocery store.

Masi, Campofiorn, 2021, Veneto IGT, Italy  

13% Alc/Vol | $23.89| Discovered at Sandy’s Your Independent Grocer Toronto – 2266 Queen St. .E, Toronto, ON 

I’ve often thought that if I had three daughters, I would name them Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, the trio of grapes that give Masi Campofiorin its soul. This is no casual everyday pour. It’s serious, velvety, and layered with flavour, offering ripe cherry, plum, a touch of spice, fine tannins, and a lingering  finish.

Created in 1964 by Masi, Campofiorin is often affectionately referred to as the “Super-Venetian”, a stylistic wine that is rooted in tradition. Crafted using the ripasso method, this wine sees re-fermenting on dried grape skins, which creates the unique mouthfeel.

For an authentically local touch pairing, consider using oat groat from Arva Flour Mills, to make a Mushroom Oat Groat Pilaf. (Arva Flour Mills is an Ontario business with over 200 hundred years of service. Order online). Their grain offers a creamy texture and reliable quality that make a pilaf shine.   The earthy mushrooms in the pilaf complement Campofiorin’s plum and spice, creating a comforting, regionally inspired signature pairing.

Robertson Winery, Chenin Blanc 2025, Robertson Valley WO, South Africa

13% Alc/Vol | $14.95| Discovered at 99 Bottles Craft Alcohol & Bodega, 925 Kingston Rd., Toronto, ON 

Years ago, while training for a sommelier competition featuring the Wines of South Africa, I (first) began to understand the expression taste of place. South Africa’s terroir, with its generous sunlight, cooling ocean breezes, and varied soils creates robust growing conditions that shape wines into something consistently recognizable by both aroma and flavour.

A great example is Robertson Winery Chenin Blanc 2025, Robertson Valley WO. Chenin Blanc, the country’s most widely planted grape, thrives in the region like nowhere else outside of its Loire Valley homeland. In Robertson, it produces wines that are refreshing and full of character. This wine shows lively aromas of green apple, pear, and tropical fruit, underscored by hints of Meyer lemon. On the palate, it balances crisp acidity with a gentle roundness, finishing refreshing and vibrant.

Consider serving the wine alongside butter poached Lake Erie perch with lemon and herbs.

Lakeview Wine Co, Unoaked Chardonnay, Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA, ON

12.5% Alc/Vol | $13.95| Discovered at 99 Bottles Craft Alcohol & Bodega, 925 Kingston Rd., Toronto, ON 

Niagara Stone Road, where Lakeview Wine Co. is located, winds through the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s wine country. Growing up in the region, our mother would take my sister and me along this very stretch to visit roadside stands, where we would pick up baskets of grapes, peaches, and tomatoes for canning and, if we were lucky, a farmer’s fresh-baked pie. September is the best time to visit.

Among their approachable and well-crafted wines, the Lakeview Unoaked Chardonnay stands out for its purity and freshness. Without the influence of oak, the wine highlights the natural character of the grape. Distinct aromas of green apple, citrus, and pear lead into a crisp palate with refreshing acidity and a clean, mineral-driven finish. It is a quintessential Niagara Chardonnay: ripe and lively.

Try with the Terroni Margarita pizza found in the freezer section at 99 Bottles.

Chemin des Papes, 2023, Côtes-du-Rhône AOP, France

14% Alc/Vol | $13.95| Discovered at Mac’s Convenience Store, 933 Kingston Rd., Toronto, ON

Mac’s Convenience is anything but ordinary. Far from a standard corner store, it carries a thoughtful range of products that extend well beyond the expected including wine, beer, and cider. You won’t easily uncover the shop with a quick internet search. It’s the sort of place  someone shares with you, or you simply must stumble upon.

When I stopped to purchase a lotto ticket, I was pleasantly surprised to find such an engaging and distinctive selection. Chemin des Papes 2023 is a classic expression of the southern Rhône. Crafted under the prestigious Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) Côtes-du-Rhône, this wine is typically a blend anchored by Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.

In the glass, it shows a deep ruby hue and offers aromas of ripe red berries, blackberry, and a touch of spice. On the palate, it is supple and approachable, with layers of juicy fruit balanced by soft tannins and a hint of Provençal herbs on the finish. The 2023 vintage continues this legacy, offering excellent value while capturing the warmth and charm of the southern French sun. For the tasting, I picked up a couple of spicy pepperoni sticks at Mac’s which made for a comforting wine experience.

Castillo de Logroño, 2019 Crianza, Rioja DOCa, Spain

13.5% Alc/Vol | $14.95| | Discovered at Mac’s Convenience Store, 933 Kingston Rd., Toronto, ON

This is the kind of wine that invites good company, perfect for sharing over dinner with friends and lingering afterward through a few lively rounds of Uno. Castillo de Logroño 2019 Crianza, from Rioja, is crafted primarily from Tempranillo with a touch of Garnacha. The “Crianza” designation means the wine has been aged for a minimum of two years, including at least one year in oak barrels, striking a balance between youthful fruit and matured complexity.

In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby colour with aromas of ripe cherry, plum, and hints of chocolate and vanilla. On the palate, juicy red fruit mingles with notes of spice and gentle earthiness, all framed by smooth tannins and a polished finish. Winemakers Víctor and David Fernández de Manzanos represent the fifth generation of a family with more than 130 years of experience, aging their wines in historic underground tunnels that date back to the Middle Ages. Finding a wine of this pedigree tucked away in a local convenience store feels like uncovering a hidden treasure.

— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.