From The Cellar: Small producers, big character found in Ontario’s Hidden Vineyards

By DORIS MICULAN BRADLEY

Tucked away beyond the well-trodden paths of Niagara and Prince Edward County are a handful of Ontario vineyards quietly crafting wines that rival their more famous neighbours.

These are the small, family-run or experimental producers working sustainably, embracing native yeasts or unconventional blends. While their names may not yet grace magazine covers, their bottles are refreshingly easy to find through grocery stores, restaurants, or direct-to-consumer shipping.

Recently, myself and the Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club Ladies uncorked a few of Ontario’s best-kept wine with soul, place, and plenty of story.

East Dell 2024 Pinot Grigio VQA  

10.3% Alc/Vol | $14.95 | LCBO# 65367

This is Niagara in a glass, bottled with a breeze from the vineyard’s sun-kissed slopes. It is a perfect wine on a hot day. East Dell is one of those charming, slightly off-the-radar estates where lush vineyards meet rustic tranquility.

This Pinot Grigio bursts with orchard freshness. Think crisp green apple, juicy pear, and a hint of lemon blossom. Lighthearted yet polished, it’s the kind of wine that’s just as comfortable with the Irresistible Thick Cut Devil’s BBQ  flavoured chips as it is with grilled chipotle and mango shrimp. Even better? I found this at the local Danforth Avenue grocery store while shopping for chips and shrimp.

Ocala Orchard Winery Honeycrisp Apple Wine

10.5% Alc/Vol | $15.29| Order Vineyard Direct

Located in Port Perry, Ontario, Ocala Orchard Winery is where history and harmony meet. This enchanting estate is nestled among heirloom apple trees, with roots tracing back to 1912. As both a working orchard and a boutique vineyard, it offers a rare blend of authentic charm and refined elegance. Rows of vines stretch alongside century-old trees, while the gentle hum of bees and birdsong fills the air.

The Honeycrisp Apple Wine is crafted from 500 carefully tended trees that line the 20-acre orchard. Each bottle captures the vibrant character of this beloved apple, snappy, juicy, and refreshingly crisp. On the palate, expect a gentle sweetness balanced by lively acidity, with notes of fresh orchard fruit and a hint of citrus. This orchard-vineyard is truly one of Ontario’s gems where nature sets the rhythm.

Rolling Grape Vineyard Rosé 

12.5% Alc/Vol | $28.00| Order Vineyard Direct

Bingham Avenue’s Lady Helen took us on a long scenic drive eastward, following what felt like an endless stretch of Kingston Road all the way to Kitty’s countryside escape near Peterborough. Along the way, we discovered Rolling Grape Vineyard, a charming vineyard and event space nestled among rolling hills. The winery is soaked in tranquility and is a tucked-away haven where time seems to pause just long enough for your glass to refill.

The rosé is made from Canada’s king of grapes, Cabernet Franc. Hints of wild strawberry, rhubarb, and a whisper of white pepper glide across the palate, making it the kind of wine that invites lingering sips and second pours. It is not just a wine,  it’s a gentle reminder that simplicity, when rooted in passion, can be profoundly elegant.

Adamo Estate Winery 2021 Whip’d White Blend

11% Alc/Vol | $15.95| Order Vineyard Direct

Adamo Estate Winery is a vibrant, boutique winery settled in the hills of Hockley Valley, where cool-climate grapes meet warm-hearted hospitality.

I am often asked why a winemaker blends their wine. The 2021 Whip’d White is a great example of a blend of Muscat grapes, prized for vibrant aromatics, Chardonnay and Riesling, selected for their crisp acidity and freshness, Gewürztraminer bringing hints of pink roses and Pinot Blanc offering concentrated fruit. To add to this blend, the grapes were harvested at different stages of life, which makes for a once-per-harvest-lifetime wine experience. Expect refreshing and fruit-forward mouthfeel with notes of melon, citrus, and a touch of honey and flowers. Try this with a BBQ’d chickpea and lentil veggie burger with Whip’d  deglazed caramelized onions served on a jalapeño cheddar bun.

— Doris Miculan Bradley is a professor, International Master Sommelier, chef and East Toronto resident.