From our July, 2009 edition

In case you didn’t know, Syrah and Shiraz are exactly the same grape in the vineyard. They are called one or the other in certain parts of the world and manifest themselves differently depending on where they are grown. Generally, Europe, preferring to call the grape Syrah, tends to create an Old World style, one with barnyardy dark fruit, black pepper, earth, saddle leather, black licorice and tar.

Most everywhere else in the world tends to create more of a New World version: fruit-driven, slightly sweeter, sporting more coffee and chocolate notes with less bottom end. Although there is some crossover in interpretation of this grape in different parts of the world, producers will often call the grape one or the other depending on the style of wine they have created, merely to indicate to the consumer the slant. So if a producer creates an Old World style, they will probably call it Syrah. Creating a New World style will more than likely render it Shiraz. It’s strictly a marketing thing.

South Africa, more so than any other country, generally creates styles that fall somewhere in between the two. Quite interesting for a New World country! Even doing so, it still follows suit in naming the grape according to the direction the wine is made. Regardless of the style, South Africa appears to have a pretty good handle on Syrah/Shiraz, and creates some fascinating modern versions. Here’s a sampling of what’s available.

2005 Delheim Shiraz ($16.95, Vintages) An elegant, savory style with soft berry fruit, white pepper, leather and velvety tannins. An easy-drinking style that should appeal to most palates.

2008 Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Syrah ($15, Vintages) As the name implies, more Old World in style, this baby sports sappy mulberry, raspberry, leather, licorice, black pepper, tar and slight barnyardy medicinal notes in a firmer more powerful offering.

2006 Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block ($39.95, Vintages) Ripe berry, dark chocolate, spicy vanilla, leather and black olive come together in a rich little number with great length and aging potential.

2005 Groenland Marie Antoinette ($17.95, Vintages) Full of toasted, smoky chocolate, spice, dark fruit, coffee and herbs, this well-structured blend of Shiraz, Cab and Merlot is easy to get into and will provide much pleasure.

2005 Glen Carlou Syrah ($36.95, Vintages) A very sold vino with toasted oak, barnyard, leather, sweet mulberry, spice and flowers. Quite dense and powerful.

2003 Graham Beck The Ridge ($25.95, Vintages) Smoky dried cherry, sweet berry, black pepper, leather, tar and clove mesh beautifully here in this full, austere sample. Structured elegance.

2003 Boshendal Reserve Collection Shiraz ($29.95, Vintages) Packed full of smoked meat, sweet stewed black fruit, herbs, tar, leather and spice, it’s harmonious, bold and poised. Will reward cellaring.

2002 Laborie Jean Taillefert Shiraz ($44.65, Vintages) Look out for the coffee. toffee, sweet vanilla, black currant, black berry, spice, olive and cedar in this complex, well balanced wine because the integrated fruit and wood will seduce.

2005 TMV Viktoria Red ($19.95, Vintages) This perfumed blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Cab is very Rhone-like with its minerally dark fruit, spice, black licorice, saddle leather, coffee, tar and earth. Velvety and juicy. Will reward up to eight years of cellaring!

2004 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah ($49.90, Vintages) A tightly knit, well-structured blockbuster with toasted vanilla, brooding dark fruit, chocolate, tar, herbs, violet and leather. A stunning example of this grape that will provide great longevity.

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